Complete guide to Laos

Laos reveals itself slowly, along the Mékong and mountain roads connecting Luang Prabang to the southern plateaus. From our agency in Vientiane, we follow this landlocked country nestled between China, Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand, where 70% of the territory is covered by mountains and forests. Morning Buddhist ceremonies, the click-clack of looms in Tai Lue villages, the smell of grilled fish laap on the riverbanks: these are the concrete details we want to share.

Four regions structure a coherent journey. The mountainous North around Luang Prabang and Nong Khiaw, homeland of the Hmong, Khmu and Akha peoples, with its terraced rice fields and limestone caves. The Centre, where Vientiane keeps its provincial pace and where the Plain of Phonsavan shelters the mysterious Plain of Jars. The South, dominated by the Boloven plateau and its arabica coffee plantations between 1000 and 1300 metres altitude. Finally the fluvial archipelago of Si Phan Don, the 4000 islands of the Mékong at the Cambodian border, refuge of the last Irrawaddy dolphins.

For a first trip, we recommend 12 to 15 days between Luang Prabang, the Thakhek loop or the deep North, and a journey south. Beyond 18 days, the country reveals itself with another depth, that of multi-day treks and nights with local families.