When discussing the peninsulas of the Mekong, people often refer to the Si Phan Don trio of islands. Yet there are other charming islands hidden among the currents of this great Asian river. Don Daeng Island is one of them. In terms of tourist activity, it is less popular than Don Det or Don Khone; however, its rustic charm is unparalleled. You'll appreciate the "slow" pace of Laotian life, its idyllic cycling routes, the view of Champassak and the Wat Phou in the distance, its water buffalo, and especially its warm-hearted inhabitants.

Rural Laos at Don Daeng

The "red island" of the Mekong, or Don Daeng, is located in southern Laos, just across from the town of Champassak. It stretches 11 kilometers long and 5 kilometers wide, easily explored on foot, by small motorcycle, and by bicycle. You won't find any cars here.

It is one of the protected peninsulas of the river: Laotian culture and nature flourish freely and without constraint. The charm of the place is represented by its endless virgin beaches, fishermen at work, buffalo wallowing in the water, forests, rice paddies, traditional wooden houses on stilts, and small Wats (Buddhist pagodas).

It encompasses 8 villages with 1,500 inhabitants and a road circling its entire perimeter. It's a low-tourism island where a rural atmosphere reigns supreme. This comes as no surprise since all its inhabitants are farmers and fishermen. The only tourist establishment is the luxurious hotel La Folie Lodge.

This peninsula has few tourist attractions, but it's a place where people come for the hospitality of locals. They are smiling and very welcoming. Wandering through its dirt paths gives you the chance to see some Khmer ruins located in the center of the island, including the Umong temple of Tomo. These attest to Don Daeng's former connection to the Wat Phou heritage. There are also some ruins (statues and temples) buried underwater on the other side of the peninsula.

The island is small, but you can enjoy various activities:

• Fish in the great river alongside locals
• Attend cultural events such as the Baci ceremony or a traditional dance and music performance
• Swim in the river
• Relax on its fine sandy beaches
• Visit its villages and immerse yourself in their warm atmosphere
• Tour the Tomo temple
• Take a river excursion and visit two remote villages: Ban ThanThip and Ban Tomo
• Participate in La Folie Lodge's community projects

La Folie Lodge and its community projects

The only element that contrasts with this pastoral landscape is La Folie Lodge. It offers comfortable bungalows with terraces and river views, Laotian and Continental cuisine, a magnificent swimming pool, a bar, and a tropical garden.

More than a luxury accommodation, it's a resort invested in developing a community project that respects nature and local culture on Don Daeng Island. It invests with the support of its guests and donors regarding funding for its initiatives.

At its inception, La Folie Lodge created jobs for islanders through its construction. It then continued this trend of job creation by recruiting staff exclusively from the surrounding villages.

Since its opening in 2008, it has worked to execute its plans: renovation and equipment of schools, reforestation, preservation of traditional architecture of local infrastructure, construction of a medical clinic, composting and waste recycling, bridge construction, financial assistance for families affected by natural disasters, etc. Each of these tasks has been accomplished by the island's population and financed through the Lodge's initiatives.

In essence, the lodge works to improve the living conditions of these rural communities isolated from modern Laotian society.

Useful information

• Those who want to swim in the Mekong should wear sarongs (traditional Laotian skirts) and shirts. Given the reserved nature of Laotians, bikinis are not recommended.
• It's advisable to bring a map if you decide to explore the island.
• There are small shops selling water in each village on the island.
• For scooter drivers, vendors sell fuel in bottles in the larger villages.

Small in size, this peninsula is easily explored on foot. Alternatively, you can rent a bicycle and cycle around it. That said, watch out for potholes. With this option, it takes about 2 hours to complete the short loop around the island's northern tip. For the full loop, plan at least 3 good hours. To get a bicycle, you can request one from La Folie Lodge or certain guesthouses if you're a guest. Otherwise, you'll need to bring your own bicycle or scooter from the mainland.

It's also possible to move around the peninsula by dok-dok (a type of small local tractor).

Since Don Daeng is a river island, the only way to reach it is by boat. You can hire one for 100,000 kips for a round trip. About 10 minutes is sufficient for the crossing.