Xieng Khouang (Province and City of Phonsavan)

Xieng Khouang is a province in northeastern Laos, with Phonsavan as its present-day capital. The Xieng Khouang plateau, perched at roughly 1,000 meters in elevation, is best known for the Plain of Jars, an archaeological site designated by UNESCO. The region also carries deep scars from the Vietnam War: it was one of the most heavily bombed areas in the world between 1964 and 1973.

Essential Practical Information

• Access: Regular flights from Vientiane and Luang Prabang to Phonsavan airport; long-distance buses available from Vientiane and Luang Prabang.
• Recommended duration: 2 to 3 days to combine the Plain of Jars, war sites, and Phonsavan's market.
• Safety: Stay strictly on marked trails — UXO (unexploded ordnance) remains outside cleared zones.
• Dress code: No particular restrictions for archaeological sites; cover shoulders and knees when visiting temples.
• Altitude: The plateau is cool, especially at night during the dry season (November–February) — bring a warm layer.

What to See

Xieng Khouang's landscape is a succession of grassy hills dotted with monumental stone jars. Phonsavan itself is functional, rebuilt after the bombing campaign; its appeal lies in its bustling markets where Hmong, Khmu, and lowland Lao communities converge. The surrounding area reveals partially restored temples and villages of ethnic minorities.

History and Context

The former provincial capital, Muang Khoun (Xieng Khouang-town), was nearly entirely destroyed during the war. The province received more bombs per capita than any other territory in the world during the Vietnam War. Organizations like MAG (Mines Advisory Group) continue demining efforts today. Before the war, Xieng Khouang was a commercial crossroads between China, Vietnam, and the Lao kingdoms.

Visit Highlights

The Plain of Jars

Several sites (Sites 1, 2, and 3 are the most accessible) contain hundreds of megalithic jars dating from the Iron Age, between 500 B.C. and 500 A.D. Their exact function remains debated — burial vessels, rice storage, or earthenware for rice wine. Site 1, the largest, is about twenty kilometers from Phonsavan.

Muang Khoun (Former Capital)

Some thirty kilometers southeast of Phonsavan, the ruins of the old capital preserve the That Dam (black stupa) and remains of Wat Phia Wat, whose brick Buddha statue survived the bombing. An atmosphere of abandonment pervades this seldom-visited site.

Phonsavan Market

The morning market gathers Hmong vendors in traditional dress, medicinal herbs, mountain vegetables, and local products. It's one of the rare places to observe the province's ethnic diversity without tourist staging.

UXO-MAG Information Centre

This small museum in Phonsavan documents the impact of cluster munitions on civilian populations. Sobering yet factual, it provides essential context before visiting the Plain of Jars.

Photography Tips

Golden light in late afternoon over the jars at Site 1 is ideal. In misty conditions (frequent in the cool season), the atmosphere is particularly striking. Stay on marked paths when photographing — avoid venturing into tall grass. For portraits at Phonsavan market: always ask permission from subjects, especially Hmong women.

Location and Access

Phonsavan is located roughly 400 kilometers northeast of Vientiane. The airport serves domestic flights from Vientiane and Luang Prabang. The route from Luang Prabang (Route 7) is long but traverses remarkable mountainous landscapes. In town, tuk-tuks and local agencies offer vehicles with drivers to reach the sites.

Nearby Areas

• Luang Prabang — former royal capital and UNESCO World Heritage site, accessible by bus or plane; a natural departure point before or after Xieng Khouang.
• Vientiane — capital of Laos, connected by regular domestic flights from Phonsavan.
• Nong Khiaw — mountain village on the Nam Ou, reachable by combining bus and boat from Luang Prabang, to extend a northern Lao circuit.